My version uses a Logitech mouse, which forced the window to be very curved and very frontal. As it turns out though, the whole thing is so annoying that the LEGO guy hardly fits, even after nearly chopping its head of :\ Below are some construction details..

First a topview of the cover, upside down. As you can see, there is really only one attachment point -- the screw just to the right of the window. In the original cryo, it was ok to saw off the button holders, but here the screw, the only thing holding it together, would have to go too.

So instead of sawing it all off (and then just superglueing the mouse together or something) I put the window much lower than usual. Unfortunately this gives it a lot of curvature, which makes the bending a lot harder, especially without a heatgun :)

Without the gun, I went for the boiling water technique. I ripped the cover off the latest Aphex Twin and threw it in the water. Turns out that boiling it, taking it out and then bending it is very hard -- maybe I'm not fast enough, maybe I didn't let it cook long enough. In any case, the only way I could get it to work was by bending it inside the water. Some problems :

• I burned most fingers :) You could try gloves of some sort, but keep in mind, it is boiling...
• It looks like the plastic reacts, and causes much more airbubbles than regular boiling. I'm not sure, I haven't boiled water that often :) but this made it more difficult to see what you're doing.
• Manipulating inside the bowl means the plastic is very sensitive to scratches when you hit the sides or bottom of the bowl. That's ok if you'll sand it anyway, but you still have to be careful.

After bending, the shape was pretty close, so I started cutting. I first would go for a glue-to-the-inside approach, like the original, but it turns out the CD case has almost the same thickness as the mouse. So I kept chipping off parts until I could actually inset it, requiring only a single layer. Looks nice too :

Note that you need to proceed very slowly -- if you cut too much, you can start all over again. It's also good to sometimes go back to the mouse and dremel that a bit, in case it turns out the inset is rounder that the window you made (and still larger, ofcourse). Iterate alot -- it took me the better part of an afternoon, so don't try to do this in a quick hurry.. unless you have m4d sk1llz ofcourse :)

On to the electronics, I grabbed the good old shacky-box for a quick proof of concept build :

The voltage is 4.8V, but that could vary (USB should be 5V), so measure that before computing resistors. Also it seems LEDs can have a huge variation in the voltage drop they take, don't just assume 1.6V (normal) or 3.2V (bright) or whatever -- measure it. It can save you some time hunting a non-existing hidden R :) In the above pic I tested things with a normal LED, they're cheaper if you nuke them.

Tip : if (like me) you blow up the DC A meter... yes, even the cheapest crap (like mine) has a fuse that you can replace. Fuses are 5 euro for 10 pieces, and all rejoiced :)

So it turns out the guy doesn't fit standing, sitting nor lying down :\ There is a metallic shield you can safely remove, and if you remove the helmet/haircut and cut off a bit of the head, it "just" fits. All in all, I have to admit that it doesn't work too well. Thanks to the very bad place of the screw, it was a problem case from the start. Still, the mouse makes for a cool desktop light, although I may dismantle it first time I need a bright LED and run out of any :)

Thanks
Big thanks ofcourse to Japala for the original idea, lots of help, and for showing how it is done properly :)
Also thanks to Dries aka DPK aka meh brother for explaining the dremel, epoxy and other leet schtuff :)
Pictures courtesy of a Creative Webcam which as you can see is crap, sorry about that.